Here is a restaurant writ large in size, form and aspect – a heritage wharf building with views of harbour and bridge, the gardens of Barangaroo, a cruise ship or two, its two storeys decked in timber floors and beams, its white linen-clad tables lit by a cascade of tiny pendant lights. Flying Fish focuses on freshness of produce and combinations that make sense rather than surprise. White anchovies, sweetly salty with smoked tomato and toast, are maxed up on flavour. So too seared scallops with sweetcorn, nectarine and boudin noir. Port and maple bacon intensify the richness of ocean trout; a pity, then, that steamed toothfish, a substitute for the scheduled Murray cod, seems insipid. The wine list covers celebrations grand and small, and there’s a decent showing by the glass. Service is swift but perfunctory, a downer in pleasurable and somewhat pricey surrounds. A generous slice of blackberry and goat’s cheese cheesecake restores the vibe.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
Flying Fish
Jones Bay Wharf 19-21 Pirrama Rd Pyrmont, Sydney, NSW
