The recent recruitment of Sixpenny and Shell House alumnus Aaron Ward has done wonders for the Bathers’ Pavilion kitchen. Not that the longstanding long-lunch institution – with its dapper interiors, well-drilled service and trusty 40-page wine list – needed much help, mind you. Now, though, you’re just as likely to lose yourself in the classically minded yet blisteringly current cooking as you are the glittery views over Balmoral Beach. A smoked eel emulsion, for instance, sends beef tartare down an unexpected path, with cherries, beetroot and buckwheat each offering well-judged contrast. Sticky chicken sauce does the same for Murray cod with a black-pepper caramel crust, which plays nicely with the bittersweet currants, soured onions and pine-nut purée alongside. Lemon sorbet may seem like a safe, on-theme finish, but a squirt of yuzushu and a trickle of olive oil make it sparkle anew. If it’s been a while between visits, it’s probably time to get reacquainted.
Nikki To
