Vincisgrassi

1. For mushroom filling, heat half the butter and half the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat, add half the mushrooms, half the porcini and half the garlic and stir occasionally until browned (3-4 minutes). Season to taste, add half the parsley and transfer to a bowl. Repeat with remaining ingredients and set aside.

2.For besciamella, use cloves to stud bay leaves into onion, place in a saucepan with milk and peppercorns, bring barely to the simmer over medium-high heat, remove from heat, stand to infuse (30 minutes), then return to the simmer. Melt butter in a separate saucepan over medium-high heat, sift in flour and stir continuously for 2 minutes. Gradually add hot milk (discard solids), whisking until smooth, then bring to the simmer and whisk until thickened (2-3 minutes). Remove from heat, whisk in parmesan, season to taste and stir in half the mushroom mixture.

3.Meanwhile, heat butter in a large frying pan, add livers and garlic and cook, turning occasionally, until seared (1-2 minutes). Season to taste, remove from heat and, when cool enough to handle, thinly slice livers and add to remaining mushroom mixture with prosciutto. Set aside.

4.Cut pasta dough into 30cm-long sheets and place on a lightly floured tray. Cook pasta in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until just al dente (2-3 minutes), remove with a slotted spoon, refresh, drizzle with a little oil.

5.Preheat oven to 200C. Lay one-third of pasta sheets in a lightly oiled 1.75-litre baking dish, or enough to cover base, spread with one-third of besciamella, then half the chicken liver mixture, then half the mozzarella. Repeat with half remaining pasta, half remaining besciamella, all remaining livers and all remaining mozzarella. Finish with remaining pasta, then remaining besciamella. Scatter with parmesan, bake until golden (20-30 minutes) and serve hot with a crisp leaf salad.