The city’s best ’80s playlist and fluent floor staff lend an undeniable sense of fun to this 40-seater, where supple leather booths and sculptured copper bring a sense of occasion. Ponder the premium wine list then opt for a five- or eight-course dégustation or go à la carte at lunch and weekday dinners. Chef Reuben Davis handles the pans with flair and imagination. Much of the menu is new (the gimmicky clothesline endures in a chocolate dessert) but Greece is still the word in dumpling-like polenta keftedes with Pyengana cheddar and bacon mayo and the horiatiki salad of Clarence River prawns with melon, XO sauce and mint so fragrant it steals the show. Psari – kingfish – is par-cooked then flash-fried and served in a kakavia soup. Purists may baulk at a deconstructed mandarin baklava but epicureans won’t fault the flavours.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
