While the name evokes images of checked cloths and wax-encrusted Chianti bottles, Italian & Sons is a niftily modern affair. Pendant lamps cast a glow across a buzzy, sleek, timber-panelled space, and the wine list contrasts edgy naturals with the legends of Tuscany and Piedmont. The kitchen turns out classic pizze and pasta, but shakes things up with specials and shared plates. Kick off with fiery ‘nduja and outstanding focaccia – crisp, light and rich with rosemary and olive oil. Hand-rolled pici noodles are tossed through a quail and porcini ragù made more decadent with smoked butter, and the wood-fired oven does wonders for Chianti-braised veal cheeks. Desserts get a contemporary makeover, among them a stunning pear and almond-brioche pudding enriched by amaretto-based zabaglione. Service? As warm and assured as tradition demands.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
