You could say ESP goes its own way. A swirling Christopher Boots chandelier, darkly glamorous room and showcase open kitchen all swim against the tide of casualisation; so does Scott Pickett’s dégustation menu, which grows more theatrical and experimental without ever stooping to twee, or losing sight of flavour. Even the salvo of snacks that kicks off the meal, a four-act extravaganza including nasturtium-wrapped truffled quail eggs in a nest of straw, and parmesan sablé biscuits with a crested flourish of king prawn and shaved macadamia, is a witty Australian take on European culinary classicism. The playful modernity and carefully handled flavours continue with chervil-oiled veal sweetbreads in smoky onion broth through to impressive petits fours. The service and décor (diners sit on Philippe Starck chairs at broadly spaced tables or ringside at the bar) conspire to create a true sense of occasion dining.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
