Jamie Irving isn’t pushing the boundaries of Italian cuisine too far at this understated bistro – he’s pushing impeccably sourced ingredients and presenting them without tricks. Tuesday nights are even dedicated to celebrating a seasonal ingredient such as chestnuts or chilli, or northern Italian cheeses, perhaps. The buzzy room befits a stylish crowd, with glossy polished concrete flanked by bottled pickles and a glass rear wall. Zucchini flowers are stuffed with ricotta, fried in a lacy batter and sweetened with honey from rooftop hives, while kingfish crudo is lightly oiled and flecked with chilli and punchy citrus segments. Pasta is a highlight – as you’d hope – with pappardelle coated in a rich sausage ragù. Desserts make the most of seasonal bounty, as with the rhubarb torte with a crumbly almond crust, and there are plenty of Italian wines offered by the glass. So take your time, take it easy and taste your way through Italy, from top to toe.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
