Maha is Melbourne’s buzziest Middle Eastern restaurant: a cave-like space splashed in copper and gold that attracts celebrities and celebrating diners in equal measure. Underpinning the atmosphere is the excellent service (credit to the sommeliers for making great wine matches with labels from Chile to Israel) and Shane Delia’s modern take on Middle Eastern flavours. Banquet-style dining might start with an invigorating tartare of za’atar-pickled green tomatoes, layered with tender strands of cuttlefish and basil, before heading into meatier territory – pork cutlets, say, with an orange-blossom glaze. Lamb shoulder is a 12-hour-roasted, fall-apart delight, its richness offset by smashed pickled radish and slivers of mint. Sweet things are another strength, from sumac-poached strawberries with boozy arak jam and a yoghurt ice-cream to rosewater-glazed doughnuts, reminiscent of Greek-style loukoumades and filled with Turkish delight.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
