Few Margaret River cellar doors feel as connected to the land as Cullen. It doesn’t hurt that the Cullen family was one of the region’s winemaking pioneers. Or that the building is a warm timber and granite site that sparks nostalgia. While matriarch Vanya Cullen oversees all things vinous (pro tip: arrive early for a pre-lunch tasting), Iain Robertson is responsible for the equally earthy menu. Smoked kangaroo with accents of wattleseed is a study in Australiana, while masterstock quail demonstrates an affinity for international flavours. Sweetcorn with dainty tempura-fried zucchini flowers cradling creamy sheep’s whey is as much about confident technique as it is pristine ingredients grown in the kitchen garden. While this focus on terroir feels very Margaret River, so too does the service – which can be a little too casual at times. If only staff were as polished as the mousse made with estate honey, the epitome of Cullen’s homely charms.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
