Melbourne’s Hellenic flag is flying extra high thanks to Con Christopoulos and Stavros Konis’s reinvention of the 25-year-old Melbourne Supper Club as a Greek restaurant. Heartfelt flavours embracing the virtues of simplicity bring the rustic spirit of an Athenian diner to the handsome first-floor space overlooking Spring Street. The menu puts a pulse into the classic playbook by way of warm, caper-crowned fava dip starring yellow split peas; velvety swatches of ouzo-cured kingfish drizzled in fruity olive oil; and perfect pull-apart braised lamb with potatoes in a puddle of oregano-spiked cooking juices. And yes, there is baklava. The dining room’s sophistication remains – white linen on tables, smooth monochrome-clad waiters, Parliament House winking through the picture window – while Greek varieties like assyrtiko and xinomavro bring a twist on the excellent wine list. Swing by post-10pm for the supper menu’s trio of soulful, traditional soups, including an avgolemono that’s a cloud-like bowl of comfort.
