Wet-roasted veal breast with mushrooms and soubise

1.Preheat oven to 150C. For mushroom filling, heat butter and oil in a large frying pan over high heat, add shallot and garlic and stir occasionally until tender (5-6 minutes). Add mushrooms and thyme and stir until tender (5 minutes). Meanwhile, drain porcini (reserve water) and finely chop, then add to mushroom mixture and cook for another minute. Season well to taste, transfer to a bowl to cool and wipe out pan with absorbent paper.

2.Place veal breast pinker flesh-side up, then spread mushroom mixture evenly over it, leaving a 2cm border. Roll veal breast away from you to form a cylinder, then secure with kitchen string and 2 toothpicks at either end to prevent stuffing from spilling out.

3.Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in the same pan over high heat, then add veal and cook, carefully turning occasionally, until browned on all sides (1-2 minutes each side). Transfer to a roasting pan large enough to fit snugly and set aside. Deglaze pan with Madeira, then pour over veal along with veal stock and 2 tbsp reserved porcini water, and roast, turning and basting occasionally, until veal is tender (4½-5½ hours). Set aside to rest in a warm place, covered with foil (20-30 minutes).

4.For soubise, melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat, add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened (10-20 minutes). Add chicken stock, increase heat to medium-high and bring to the boil, stirring occasionally, until onions are very tender (30-40 minutes). Strain liquid from pan (reserve). Add cream to pan, bring to the boil, then remove from heat and blend with a hand-held blender, adding a little reserved liquid if necessary to create a smooth, thick sauce. Season to taste and keep warm.

5.Heat butter and remaining oil in a large frying pan over high heat, add chestnut mushrooms and toss occasionally until browned (1-2 minutes). Season to taste.

6.To serve, spoon soubise onto plates, remove veal from pan, discard string, slice and place on soubise, then spoon some of the pan juices over. Top with chestnut mushrooms and serve hot.