Residents of the what’s known locally as the People’s Republic of Ainslie don’t take kindly to regime change. Fortunately Pulp Kitchen’s new owner Gus Armstrong maintains bistro doctrine, keeping classic steak frites with bearnaise and a lemon tart with perfectly pitched acidity and exceptional pastry on the menu. Chef Josh Lundy pushes Pulp beyond classics with silky albacore dressed lightly and accompanied by avocado puree, seaweed and sesame. Onion soup made with dashi stock and vintage Comte speaks of loads of butter and hours of braising, while local organic lamb chops with braised cos, morels and a pho-style sauce shows commit to quality produce. A savvy drinks list features the best local craft beers, pet-nats and Eden Road’s inspired P3 pinot blend. The space seems brighter, and the stylish textured walls keep noise levels in check. Pulp’s third incarnation is a step up, but one that locals are embracing.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
