It’s nearly a decade since Urbane revealed its minimalist look, but the polished gallery-like setting remains crisp. So to the technique-driven dishes, now being conjured by a fresh team following the departure of Alejandro Cancino. Herbivore options have lost dazzle with the changing of the guard, but an array of intriguing snacks kick off with tumblers of intense tomato water. It’s big-night-out territory, with service to match and a hefty wine list poised to empty the wallet. Precisely cooked scampi might be wrapped in crisp angel hair pastry, say, atop a rich bisque brightened by lemon and ponzu, while lamb tagine is presented as a pastry-encased square with fruity couscous. Mixing the fresh and the familiar, toasted chestnut and tonka bean snow complements green apple sorbet, jolting senses back to reality. Smart petit fours ensure your landing remains smooth.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
