There’s a pleasurably unpretentious spirit to Union Dining, a reminder of that oft-forgotten word, hospitality. Nicky Riemer and Adam Cash’s restaurant road-trips across France, Italy and Spain, evoking bistro-trattoria memories. Start with a rooftop Negroni, before settling downstairs for Riemer’s rustic-leaning offerings, executed with urbane care. Crudo might take the form of kingfish enlivened with shaved fennel, cucumber, mint and a zippy escabeche sauce. Spaghettini with chopped prawns sounds simple, but the USP is the saucing: in place of the usual tomato or wine-based sauce, Riemer offers a seafood bisque of depth and complexity. For fresh comfort food, it’s hard to go past the parmesan-crumbed Western Plains pork rib-eye, its robustness hijacked by a Sicilian slaw of red cabbage, almonds and currants. Finish with chocolate fudge dressed with malt ice-cream, dulce de leche, honeycomb and orange caramel. Happy food in a happy house.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
