Fresh from a stint at Magill Estate Restaurant, chef Emma McCaskill’s first solo venture is with restaurateur-of-the-moment Simon Kardachi at a cosy eatery. The updated space and menu results in a refined bistro focused on regional food and wine. Brine-soaked sardine with chilli relish on a linseed cracker, topped with pickled shallot and dill, is a winning opener, followed by a vibrant salad that teams the crunch of just-blanched asparagus and fennel with black lentils and a lemony, ash-topped labne. Wood-roasted whiting is elevated by the umami wakame, shio koji and capers. Could the pork loin chop be juicier? Its flavours work well with dill pickle, pineapple chutney and fennel flowers nonetheless. Enjoy the expansive choices by the bottle or glass and finish with Mint Slice Vienetta – a heavenly play on two favourites, with layers of cream, ice-cream and minty goodness.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
