Watermelon with the texture of rare kangaroo, white chocolate twigs so lifelike they look as if they were gathered from the rainforest walk outside. This is food designed to challenge and excite. Take sweet braised kangaroo tail, beautifully paired with tangy lilly pillies and the watermelon, which has been slow-roasted, frozen and pan-fried to develop a quirky viscosity. A crisp squid-ink and tapioca flour web hides tender suckling pig and strips of confit squid resembling al dente rice noodles. Those chocolate twigs are paired with chocolate-caramel mousse pebbles and a malted potato ice-cream rock to create a playful and flavourful nod to the restaurant’s location within Clovelly Estate. Well-versed staff offer explanations on the multi-course menu – the carte bookended with an array of clever amuse-bouches and petits fours – and provide assistance navigating a broad collection of New and Old World wines anchored with trusted labels.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
