Chef Dan Moss has learned a lot since moving to the Clare Valley in 2012 and opening this boutique bistro. His initial eagerness for experimenting meant dishes sometimes got confusing. But time has tempered the chef’s style and his understanding of regional ingredients has grown. So consider his locavore menu afresh, starting with haloumi, pan-fried and teamed with soy bean and caper leaves for savoury and salty impact. Local meats command hero roles on the tight menu, although vegetables play a key part on every plate, too: eggplant is prepared as a silky green curry beside roasted chicken thigh and a duck spring roll, or combined with Berkshire pork and miso, adding a umami accent to minced grilled belly. Terroir Auburn’s appeal is also underlined by generous servings and strong value. Boutique Clare Valley producers dominate the drinks list, and nearly everything else – including the pilsner and ale on tap – is local, too.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
