There’s lots going on at Saint Crispin. The interior is straightforward – the timber-floored room has dark tones, brass finishes and a glossy bar – but the kitchen works hard for its money. Its menu, by executive chef Scott Pickett, includes multiple-course options, plus “little bites” such as Moonlight Flat oysters or pork scratchings dusted with sugar and dashi, perfect with a Paloma or Grand Ridge beer from Gippsland. Things can get fiddly, though. When juicy snails are tossed with a vibrant, buttery parsley crumb, crisp garlic, onion and bacon, the accompanying bacon and brioche scroll seems superfluous. Caramelised duck breast is loaded with parfait, gizzards, carrots and chunks of pistachio-ginger cake, but a plump piece of Western Plains pork with a brittle ribbon of crackling, white pudding and zucchini flowers shows welcome restraint. A light and simply gorgeous cherry clafoutis saves the day, as does the sharp, friendly service and elegant atmosphere.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
