Perhaps it’s time to venture off-piste at Quay. To veer away from the vast treasure trove of wines, for example, and be bowled over by the brilliant, booze-free purity of a clarified Tomato Consommé cocktail. Or to opt for the six-course vegetarian menu, where Peter Gilmore’s unflinching eye for exquisite produce really comes alive. Along the way, you might encounter a cube of incomparably bright golden beetroot buried in tapioca pearls, intensified by confit egg yolk and marigold. You may also grow convinced that the hand-rolled cavatelli doesn’t need bone marrow and mud crab to shine, just pinstriped peanuts, baby zucchini and sour koji butter. Even as you tread the path less travelled, the views still stop you in your tracks – as do the poolish crumpets and haunting White Coral dessert – and service from the plum young team remains resolutely professional. A seemingly immovable presence in the pantheon of Australia’s great restaurants.
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Quay
Australian
Upper Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, The Rocks
Nikki To
