The allure of the bijou downstairs bar is great indeed, but resist the pink neon-bathed vision of snacky good times and head upstairs to the big boned warehouse, now transformed into a handsome dining hall. It’s a blank canvas for chef Victor Liong, whose new-style Chinese food takes its cues from the lilting elegance of Cantonese but heads off in its own unique direction, evidenced by the two-bite starter of chicken crackling topped with cashew cream and black vinegar sauce and its delicate opposite, spanner crab and silken tofu smoked roe in a vibrant carrot and ginger sauce. Replete with 9-score wagyu, Murray cod and show-off ingredients galore, the tasting menu is now compulsory, although fans of Liong’s signatures – the crisp eggplant in spiced red vinegar and crab and scallop fried rice – will be thrilled to see them on the specials list. Heartfelt service extends to a wine list with dangerous undertow and sums up a fine diner in casual clothing.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
Sharyn Cairns
