Lebrina has been doing its Old-World French/Italian-inspired thing for more than 20 years. And while every city’s got a place where the linen is pressed, the service formal and slightly aloof, the wine list leans classic and glazes burnish meals more often seen in an Evelyn Waugh novel than a new-millennium menu, there’s a fine line between tradition and going through the motions. Some dishes keep the faith. Gruyère souffle – a standard celebrating its 20th anniversary – is a sensual mouthful, creamy, warm and richer than Warren Buffett. Others – very thoroughly cooked fish, uninspiring sides – aren’t keeping up with the times, and can be hard to swallow at this price point. But pigeon breast, perfumed with spice from its Marsala glaze, comes out a pretty pink under perfect crisp skin. It’s rich stuff; be sure to pack an appetite. Or else loosen the belt a notch or two during dinner. But discreetly, please – there are standards to uphold.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
