Kazuki’s is a lesson in subtle disruption. There’s the location for starters, a monochrome shopfront on Lygon Street’s gaudiest stretch that opens to an oasis of minimalist, mustard-carpeted calm. If the atmosphere wasn’t so serene the juxtaposition would be jarring, as would a glance at the nine-part snack course that starts the tasting menu. It’s light years away from the food outside and the perfect overture for the brilliant fusion (a rehabilitated word) of Japanese and European flavours and techniques that chef-owner Kazuki Tsuya displays over eight-ish courses. Squid ink gnocco fritto is draped in superb jamón, a cube of ox tongue glistens under a soy and pepperberry glaze, crumbed slivers of abalone are topped with sesame mayonnaise, oysters are teamed with Tasmanian sea urchin. Post-snack, the quality doesn’t wane, whether you’re talking Moreton Bay bug wontons with soy butter foam, a finely tuned wine list or subtle, engaged service.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
