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Review: Sydney’s Jung Sung isn’t afraid to mess with tradition

A modern Korean fine-diner offers twists on traditional dishes with finesse, with a rule-breaking bibimbap, red snapper hwe with karkalla, and Brussels sprouts kimchi.

Moreton Bay Bug - two ways, soy marinated and butter poached, gochujang aioli, brown butter, bug bibimbap.

Photo: Supplied
Address
Level 3, The Old Rum Store, 2-10 Kensington St, Chippendale, Sydney

If someone were to ask you out for a Korean meal, chances are that visions of paper-thin slices of grilled meat and a medley of chilli-flecked banchan would spring to mind. Probably less so a Moreton Bay bug bibimbap, which is what makes Sydney’s Jung Sung so intriguing.

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At this new contemporary Korean restaurant atop the Old Rum Store in Chippendale’s humming Kensington Street precinct, the popular one-bowl Korean wonder, which is traditionally made with humble ingredients, such as rice, vegetables and egg, comes deconstructed. And if there was ever a reason to break the rules, this is it. In place of a hot stone bowl are two rustic vessels – one is meticulously layered with puffed buckwheat, quinoa and diced soy-marinated Moreton Bay bug meat, while the other cradles a butter-poached bug tail, a glossy puddle of crustacean jus and aïoli spiked with gochujang – that wonderful spicy-salty fermented condiment made from chilli powder and glutinous rice.

Moreton Bay Bug – two ways, soy marinated and butter poached, gochujang aioli, brown butter, bug bibimbap.

(Photo: Supplied)

The dishes arrive at the table simultaneously, alongside a small vial of toasted sesame oil that we’re told to drizzle over the grains before mixing everything together. Eyes closed, the flavours and textures are bibimbap. Open them, and it’s a finessed, fine-dining affair.

The reimagined bibimbap is a great example of executive chef Insup Kim’s creativity and skill, which comes from years working in Michelin-starred restaurants in New York. At Jung Sung, Kim’s goal is to offer a sophisticated take on the funky and fermented flavours Korean cuisine is best known for. It takes a certain amount of confidence to mess with tradition, of which he has plenty.

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Take the kimchi for example, where Brussels sprouts replace the usual combination of napa cabbage and radish. Or the fish of the day – hapuka in this case – which is delicately glazed in a mixture of sweet soy and anchovy with a hint of black garlic.

Red snapper hwe is another high point in the six-course dégustation. It sees pearlescent slices of raw snapper paired with umami-rich white soy “crystals”, a herbaceous perilla extract, sweet cubes of rockmelon and karkalla – arguably, it’s a dish that leans more contemporary than Korean. The same goes for the wagyu beef course with burnt eggplant and jalapeño jus.

Red snapper hwe.

(Photo: Supplied)
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Kim’s modern interpretation of classic Korean flavours is refreshing and playful, however I’d welcome a little more funk over finesse. Even still, Jung Sung offers something exciting in the way of Korean cuisine in Sydney.

Jung Sung Level 3, The Old Rum Store, 2-10 Kensington St, Chippendale, Sydney, jungsung.com.au

Chef Insup Kim

Opening hours Tue-Sun 11.30am-3.30pm; 5.30pm-10.30pm

Price guide $$$

Bookings Recommended.

Verdict A modern take on Korean cuisine.

Review: Sydney’s Jung Sung isn’t afraid to mess with tradition
Korean
Level 3, The Old Rum Store, 2-10 Kensington St, Chippendale, Sydney
Chef(s)
Insup Kim
Price Guide
$$$
Bookings
Recommended
Opening Hours
Tue-Sun 11.30am-3.30pm; 5.30pm-10.30pm

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