This agrarian fantasy is manifested in the diminutive town of Gundaroo, where comforting dishes are constructed under the historic tin roof of the 1865 Royal Hotel.
At Grazing in Gundaroo, chef Kurt Neumann's fare is warm and homely, yet hints at something thrilling.
With travel limited to our own backyards, escapist daydreams have turned inward; to historic country inns warmed by roaring fireplaces, to local wines and to plates filled with produce pulled from nearby patches. This elusive, agrarian fantasy is manifested in the diminutive town of Gundaroo, where chef Kurt Neumann dispenses comforting dishes constructed with neighbourhood ingredients under the historic tin roof of the 1865 Royal Hotel. Like the character-filled building that once protected travellers from bushrangers, Neumann’s fare is warm and homely, yet hints at something thrilling. Lightly grilled oysters topped with miso caramel and beurre noisette; a prawn cavorting in a buttery sauce with peas and clams; or beef cheeks sweetened in Pedro Ximénez then fried until crisp. With a tight list celebrating local Canberra-region winemakers and service suggestive of a family meal, your Grazing experience will leave you thankful for the opportunity to explore the lands a little closer to home.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
