Why exchange the conviviality of Golden Century’s 30-year-old dining room for the staid, hushed surrounds of its newly-refurbished third level? Sure, the newly opened Golden Century Wine Bank, just a lift’s ride away, is impressive for its feature wall of Vintec fridges, updated crockery and polished service, but it’s nowhere near as fun as the ground floor. Luckily, on the plate, the renowned GC goodness flows through the whole venue, no matter which level you’re on. Whole steamed parrot fish from the live tanks – one of the pricier options on the market-price fish menu – with soy, ginger and shallots is a masterclass in Cantonese simplicity and elegance, while a hot-pot braise of beef brisket and turnip shows the kitchen can do rich and comforting, too. The salt and pepper tofu – on paper all crisp and crunch – lands a little flabby and saggy, but those signature XO pipis with crisp noodles show no sign of quitting. Three decades on, Golden Century is showing a little wear, but there’s still plenty of glimmer. With the Wine Bank, and a new restaurant, XOPP, due to launch in Darling Square, the future looks even more lustrous.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot at the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 50.
