There’s a discernible confidence in the air as you descend into this subterranean 24-seater beneath Brisbane’s Metro Arts Theatre. That sense of composure continues with technically astute snacks like saline abalone parfait on pillowy fingers of Japanese milk bread, or a duck dashi that proves an unexpectedly refreshing palate cleanser. Chef-owner Tim Scott’s drive for the best produce – even acquiring vegetable plots on a suburban farm – is the framework for his fresh, ever-changing and exciting take on the omakase format. Larger dishes, such as whip-smart squares of glazed koji rice in galangal and makrut-lime sauce or a hibachi-seared wagyu yakiniku beside flame-kissed baby corn and kombu-infused beurre blanc, cement the restaurant’s tenacity for execution. Affable and assured staff bring it all home in style, happily detailing dishes at length and recommending sake by the glass or bottles from the eclectic wine list. From start to finish, the tempo and delivery are flawless.
