As far as classic starts go, Essa’s soft, freshly baked sourdough and house-churned Jersey milk butter are an all-time opener. What follows may change slightly depending on the day, but the quest for the flavoursome and fun-filled is a constant. Set menus do simple yet comprehensive work to showcase sustainable southeastern Queensland produce, combining worldly flavours with licks of wood fire. Think flame-seared Westholme beef tartare layered with vibrant garden peas and wasabi or barbecued broccolini on whipped macadamia cream doused with crunchy XO sauce. Tempting add-ons like spanner crab crumpets with finger lime and a zesty, lemony Thai-basil mayo, meanwhile, further the opportunity to savour the kitchen’s reach. Hidden in plain sight just off of sceney James Street, the dark and charismatic dining space is a narrow, tiered slice of unadulterated escapism, drawing you in between its low ceilings and veiled windows. A removed and rewarding dining experience with zero stress, indeed.
