At Woollahra’s favourite luxed-up French canteen, the classics never fall out of fashion. Twenty years and more than a few steak frites down the track, the Thonet bentwood chairs, Michael Fitzjames mural and linen-dressed tables are as magnetic as ever, and service remains a drawcard. The signature dishes, a little more Larousse than Passard, consistently hit the mark: a spanner crab omelette in beurre noisette is the crème of the entrées, while pork sausages with sweet Lyonnaise onions, red peppers and mash are designed more to soothe than stimulate. Delicate folds of salmon cured in sauvignon blanc with soft herbs and toast make a demure alternative to the menu’s richer players – if you can resist the dense allure of the French onion soufflé, that is. The cellar leans to bigger names, whether it’s local grande marques, Champagne or Burgundy. Perhaps the secret to ageing gracefully is a knob of butter.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
