Clinton McIver’s four- and eight-course dégustations are ready for their close-ups. Arriving on hand-shaped crockery, combinations like smoked duck ham curled along a length of crisp fermented carrot or slivers of shiitake and chawanmushi drifting in a sparkling broth are as good-looking as they are well balanced. Sourdough bread is a course in itself, its impressive depth of flavour matched by cultured butter and unfiltered olive oil mixed with malted-beer honey. Desserts, such as a playfully deconstructed cheesecake, threaten to steal the show with their not-too-sweet complexity. Service is as smooth and comforting as the upholstered dining room while the drinks list includes a small yet impressive selection of sake, alongside evenly balanced Euro and Aussie labels. Amaru is smooth but it’s an equally interesting and intelligent operator, too.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
