This place pumps. In full flow it’s more akin to The Apollo where James Brown sweated out his hottest performances than the Apollo of the tunics and lyres. But for all the darkness, din and hustle, the attention to detail from the kitchen is splendid. Would you look at the flaky delicacy of that “wild weed” pie? The tenderness of grilled calamari complemented by sweet marinated red peppers? Is that a whisper of saffron entwining pork sausage and chickpeas? Just how do they make fava, that most elemental of Greek dips, so smooth and elegant without sacrificing its essential honesty? And who had the brilliance to team crisps of sour yoghurt with rose geranium cream and granita? This is the food of Greece presented at its freshest in a loud and lively setting (lunch is less deafening), framed for max effect with a savvy drinks offer and a deft, young floor team.
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
