One might wonder if diners ever catch some sea spray through the picture windows at Rick Shores, especially during high tide. But any curiosity evaporates once the signature bug rolls hit the table. They’re a mandatory order, combining sweet Moreton Bay bug meat, creamy sriracha mayonnaise and buttery brioche to brilliant effect. And pairing them with a crisp Austrian grüner veltliner from the Euro-leaning wine list makes them even better. Newer menu items showcase chef James Brady’s creativity: battered oysters topped with ginger caramel and umeboshi jellyfish, perhaps, or chicken-filled xiao long bao atop creamy laksa sauce. More classic? A yellow curry of Patagonian toothfish with cardamom leaf, or a red curry with Sichuan-style roasted duck breast and lychee, both showing excellent technique. Sure, location may count for a lot here, but it’s always been backed up by substance. Little wonder why the open, airy space is always packed with locals and tourists alike.
