Is it a bar? Is it a bird? A restaurant? An aeroplane? The lighting, the volume of the ’80s pop, the focus on booze and indeed the name say bar, but the quality of the cooking, the attentive and intelligent table service and the presence of one Analiese Gregory in the kitchen place it firmly in the restaurant camp. Gregory ran a brigade of 40 at Quay, and clocked time with Michel Bras in the Aubrac, yet her snacks and share plates here are as much about play as work. Spaghetti carbonara succeeds with straightness, while gnocchi with lap cheong, kombu butter and gai lan is perfectly bent. The late-night sandwich, a toastie of pineapple-glazed ham, ‘nduja, and crème fraîche is glam ballast, while airy gougères flavoured with Comté complement the more savoury thrills of the radical wine list. Has Sydney seen a more moreish dessert than brown butter mousse sandwiched between sheets of crisp potato? Party down.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
