The term “hospitality” gets thrown around a lot, but few deliver it as enthusiastically as Agnes. Case in point: when sommelier Franck Maître presents an iPad to show you the volcanic vineyards of the Canary Islands. It’s a nice touch given the obscurity of the diverse wine list, designed to complement Ben Williamson and Ryan Carlson’s wood-fired fare. The team’s mastery of the flame is evident in a Bangalow pork chop, cooked high above the grill till tender and smoky, paired with an intense mole made from dried guajillo chillies and almonds. Smaller dishes, meanwhile, show more delicate uses of smoke. Baked oysters with XO sauce and ’nduja, while deeply caramelised cheddar custard-filled gougères – shaped like canelés – come topped with sweet golden-raisin jam. After some time in the dark, fast-paced dining room, it’s nice transitioning to the relaxed wine bar downstairs for dessert, perhaps a chocolate namelaka with cardamom ice-cream. On fire, as always.
