The Merivale group’s homage to the French brasserie is well realised. The faithfully recreated room, which could so easily be a tired cliché, is full of energy and movement and has a lightness to match its urban surrounds. A friendly, enthusiastic floor team does a great job on the perennially busy floor. Classic dishes are where the kitchen excels: staples such as steak frites, duck confit, steak tartare and Gruyère soufflé. Going off-piste can be disappointing – a crab and prawn salad with eggplant, quinoa and pickled beetroot, for one, does none of the ingredients justice. Desserts set things right again. Salted caramel livens up profiteroles, and if Damien Hirst worked in fruit he might fashion something that looks a bit like the beautiful dish of summer berries suspended in Champagne and elderflower jelly. A substantial, French-accented wine list with a great selection by the glass rounds out this superb dining experience.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
